Our first destination was the furthest – Masada, at the south end of the Dead Sea, where Herod had built himself a palace on a high plateau. The mountain he picked stood alone, so that on all sides it would be a very difficult climb for an invading army. The invading tourists have an easier time of it, at least since 1998, when a cable car was built to carry visitors to the top. Brave souls could hike up the zigzag Snake Path, but we preferred the three-minute rise, even if it meant squeezing into the cable car like sardines.
A brisk wind whipped at us at the top, but it wasn’t chilly at all. There was enough flat land on top – 18 acres – for a small village, and we saw the storehouses, baths and other parts of the ruins that Herod built a century before Christ. The better-known Masada story took place in 72 AD when the last Jewish rebels took refuge from the Roman armies there and endured a long siege, sustained by water in great cisterns and food stores they brought in or cultivated.
When the Romans built a ramp up one side, Elazar Ben-Yair, the leader of the Jews, exhorted everyone to commit suicide rather than be enslaved. The men killed their wives and children, and then drew lots to choose 10 who would kill the other men. The final lottery selected one to kill the 10 and then fall on his own sword. Small clay shards with the names of the 10 were found in the ruins. We know the story because during the mass suicide two women and five children hid in one of the cisterns.
The view from the top was fantastic. We could see the hills of Moab (now Jordan) on the far side of the Dead Sea as well as a few oases providing spots of green in a vast and barren landscape. Israeli irrigation projects have allowed large groves of date palms and table grapes to flourish in the area, which have become a good source of revenue.
One of the oases, Ein Gedi, was our next stop. We were treated to a small parade of native ibex just after we got off the bus – nine of them, including a male with magnificent curved horns, trotted past against the tan background that matched their hides exactly. On their legs they sported white and black markings that looked like socks. Just a bit further along the path, we spotted the small native rodent-like animal, the hyrax, sunning itself on a rock. Both these animals are named in the Bible, and Gila read the passages out to us.
Down the way we could hear the wonderful splashing sound of fresh water– so unexpected in the dry rocky surroundings! And there, in the midst of a great desert area, was a rushing waterfall coming out of the rock, and in the pool below there were tall reeds and green shrubs. Butterflies danced above the reeds, birds dipped their beaks in the water and a lone ibex worked its way down the bank to have a drink. It was a magical sight.
Another short bus ride, always working our way closer to Jerusalem, brought us to Qumran, the site where the treasured Dead Sea scrolls were discovered just over 60 years ago. We could see Cave 4, the one where the greatest number of scrolls was found. In all, there were 26 caves that archeologists explored, and they found scrolls or fragments of scrolls in 11 of them.
Qumran is also the site of an ancient community of Essenes, a Jewish monastic sect. We could see the ruins of their refectory, baths and cisterns, dating from the second century BC. Some scholars believe it was the Essenes who copied and hid the scrolls in the surrounding caves.
We beat the crowds at the restaurant and gift shop at Qumran so we had time not only to eat, but also to check out the post cards, books and wide range of beauty products made with minerals from the Dead Sea.
About a dozen of us wanted to float on the Dead Sea, so our next stop was at Kalia Beach where we filed into the changing rooms to get on our swim gear. The beach was sandy, but not long after wading into the water we discovered thick, slippery bands of clay underfoot, which many bathers were scooping up and smearing on their skin. Some then left the water to let the clay dry and perform its beautifying magic.
We continued deeper, and when we were able to sit, we just sat. On the water! It held us up without any effort, and we could just lie back and float! When I ran my hand down my arm, it felt like I was covered in oil. We lazed in the water for some time, and then worked our way back to shore.
It was actually quite hard to get out, because my feet kept sinking into the clay and I had to use my hands to pull them out again! When we finally got out, we made for the shower station to wash off the salt and oily residue.
By the time we got back to Jerusalem, the sun had set on our last day of organized touring. We’re on our own tomorrow, except for a wrap-up dinner en groupe, and then it will be time to pack our bags for home.
1 comment:
The Dead Sea is an amazing place...and so is Masada. I so want to go back to Israel....in a while...
Post a Comment