The large birds were a nice distraction for me. Tunnels are
not my favourite thing, especially if they are so long that you can’t see the
end of them. Having other things like ostriches and breathtaking scenery to
occupy my thoughts was helpful as we approached the park.
When we visited on Tuesday, we followed the main road northward
seven miles into the canyon. Today, we
took the Mount Carmel Highway, heading west.
It took us on a series of long switchbacks up the side of the canyon
until at last the black opening of the tunnel came into view.
Park rangers posted at either end of the tunnel regulate the
traffic going through. Strict regulations apply to the height and length of the
vehicles. Whenever there is a bus or RV, the tunnel becomes a one-way passage, so
they can straddle the centre line to avoid scraping the sloped ceiling.
The highway and tunnel were constructed between 1927 and
1930 to allow traffic to pass through Zion and on to Bryce and the Grand
Canyon. Rather than work from one end of
the tunnel to the other, they started in the middle with a stope, the way
miners start a mineshaft, and worked their way out.
Back to that black opening.
We had a bus and three cars ahead of us, so our passage was going to be one
way. I braced myself as we were
swallowed in darkness, and our eyes adjusted to the dimness. Headlights and
reflectors on the tunnel walls helped a bit, but the best thing was the
discovery that several large openings had been made to the outside along the
length – for light, but also to allow builders to discard fill and rock into
the canyon as work progressed.
Three or four times along that dark shaft, glimpses of the
outside light made all the difference! And,
once we were out the other end, a whole new completely different park awaited. Where the other section was mostly vertical,
all the lines in the rock here were horizontal – great layers of red rock, like
ocean waves, stacked to the sky and punctuated by bright green pine trees and
other small plants.
Some formations looked like chimney pots, and others like coils
of a soft ice cream cone on a giant scale. It was amazing to see what the
plants chose to root in – the smallest crevice, where water could collect, was
all they needed to sprout and grow.
Even knowing I had to go back through that mile-long tunnel,
I was glad we hadn’t missed this wonderful sight. And I was glad those tunnel builders had
thought of giving us windows. Oh yes, and I was grateful for ostriches!
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