Saturday, February 1, 2014

Josefina and Carol

Lordsburg, NM – When the railroads first connected communities in the early days of the United States, this town came to be because it was the halfway point between El Paso and Tucson, Arizona. It’s a small town of about 3,000 people.

Our drive from El Paso today covered more sweeping panoramas of desert, as we crossed into New Mexico.  We stopped at the visitor center just over the state line to find out more about a historic spot called Mesilla, just south of Las Cruces (they pronounce it ‘loss croosis’, we learned).  We’d heard that it was worth a visit, so we got directions and decided to have a look.

On the I-10 we passed several feed lots where thousands of beef cattle awaited their fate.  Huge shelters nearby held great stacks of hay bales, and we detected a distinct farm odour for several miles. Pecans are another going concern in this part of the world.  We passed quite a few orchards with orderly rows of leafless trees.  At the gas station when we fueled up, I couldn’t resist picking up a mini-pecan pie for tonight’s dessert in support of this worthy industry.

It was shortly before lunch when we turned off the Interstate toward Mesilla. We found the historic town site and I was delighted to see the old adobe dwellings we’d encountered on our last trip through New Mexico in 2011.  The historic town plaza had a church at the north end, and small cafés and boutiques around it.  The church wasn’t open for a peek but we spotted a charming café called Josefina’s next to it, and I stopped to snap a photo of its rustic adobe-and-wood doorway.

A friendly lady remarked on the famous doorway we’d chosen to photograph as she headed for her car.  Curious, we went over to hear more, and a lovely conversation ensued.  Our new friend’s name was Carol, and she’s been here for 30-plus years.  She told us there had been a drop in tourism here since she ran a small business on the plaza.  She also talked about changes in the climate and wildlife – it is far drier than it used to be and all the mammals are gone except the javelinas (a kind of wild hog). It was great to hear a local perspective on an area we know little about.

Josefina’s, we also learned, is a very good restaurant and inn, and it was built around 1850. At the other corner of the plaza is the building in which Billy the Kid was tried and sentenced to hang.  It used to be the capitol building of Arizona and New Mexico, and then the local courthouse.  Now it’s a souvenir shop with an animated figure of Billy who talks to you when you pass by.

A few miles past Las Cruces, we reached a point where highway 26 joins the I-10 from Albequerque. From there till we reach Tucson in the coming days, we will be retracing our previous journey in 2011.  I thought that yucca plant looked familiar.

1 comment:

Unknown said...

As we watch snow swirling in our backyard, and the detritus and snow from the street piled high in our driveway by the plow, we are heartened by your posts of wind and dust and warmth. It is great to know that some of us are still warm - namely, you two. From the cold climes of the north, please enjoy!