Cabins, canyons and colleagues

Thursday, July 5, 2007

WHITEHORSE, YK — Today was Mum’s last day with us, and we wanted to pack in as much as possible up to the time she had to check in at the airport, so the turn of events at the SS Klondike this morning was fortuitous indeed.

We had toured the sternwheeler SS Keno in Dawson City a few days ago and only got to see the engine room and nether workings of the vessel; the staterooms and other levels were closed to the public. So when we came to see the larger SS Klondike here in Whitehorse, we wanted to be sure we wouldn’t miss these. We arrived just in time for the 10 o’clock tour, to be told that a busload of tourists had claimed both the 10 and 10:30 time slots and the next chance would be at 11 — too late for us, as we had to have lunch and get to the airport for 12:30.

My ever-optimistic Mum explained all this and said if we could just take a peek at the stateroom level, we’d be satisfied. The young man from Parks Canada very kindly agreed to do this for us, as the tour bus hadn’t arrived and we’d only take a few minutes of his time. On top of that, he said he wouldn’t charge us! So we got our own private tour of every part except the engine room. The boat was all beautifully restored to the early 1900s, with the lounge complete with wicker chairs and potted ferns, the dining room, galley, staterooms that looked like the guests had just stepped out, leaving their clothes and belongings behind, bakery, pantry and even the captain’s cabin and second mate’s quarters.

The view of Whitehorse, to the north, and the Yukon River to the south, from the top deck was terrific as well. Our guide showed us a photo of the entire vessel being rolled on soapy logs down the city’s main street in the 1960s from the dry dock to its current location, because the smokestack was too tall to allow it to float under existing bridges! It was a great tour, and nice and quick.

That gave us time to drive the five kilometers or so to Miles Canyon, just south of the city. The rocky cliffs on either side squeezed the Yukon River into a space about 25 meters wide, and it swirled and eddied through the narrow passage with great speed. The water was a beautiful green, and on either bank were pine forests with soft spongy undergrowth and, in the distance on every side the mountains, some still showing patches of snow. Add to this a sky of brilliant blue scattered with white puffy clouds, and you have a painting-in-waiting!

It was time to get back for an early lunch and then to take Mum to the airport. She said she had had a wonderful week with us, and we really enjoyed sharing this beautiful corner of the world with her. Her curiosity, enthusiasm and helpfulness made her visit most enjoyable.

There were some practical details to tackle next, including a spot of shopping and refueling the truck. We then stopped by the RCMP detachment to say hello to Brigitte Parker, my communications counterpart here in M Division, and Inspector Guy Rook, who worked with Val at Headquarters many moons ago. Luckily, both were there, so we were able to pick their brains about local best bets and see a bit of the detachment as well.

Back at the trailer, I rounded up an overdue collection of washing and headed for the campground coin laundry. It’s always a challenge to figure out the machines, acquire the proper coins and get everything rolling. One seldom runs across men doing this for some reason. We women have a special touch, I suppose — or, as one of my fellow laundresses wisecracked today, the men will throw the wrong things in together or get stymied by the intricacies of detergent, softeners, bleaches and water temperatures and wreck all the clothes, so it’s easier to do it yourself. She said it, not me.