Anyone who knows the song “I’se the B’ye” will remember the
chorus, “Fogo, Twillingate, Moreton’s Harbour, all around the circle”. I had
looked for what I thought was Morton’s Harbour on the Newfoundland map without
success – until I found an inset map that enlarged the area around Twillingate,
and there it was – spelled Moreton’s!
That’s where we went this morning, driving along curving
roads, up, down and around, and dodging potholes all the way, as vistas of
little fishing towns came into view – including Moreton’s Harbour, a lovely
village in a sheltered harbour that led out to Notre Dame Bay and on to the
great Atlantic Ocean.Back we came to Dildo Run as check-out time approached. Our new site was just a couple of spots down the road from the old one, so I strolled by to check on the occupants. They looked decidedly settled. We were all set to go with slides in and hatches battened down, so we made and ate our lunch to help pass the time. Finally we saw the folks pull out, and we made our move.
Setting up was quick, giving us the remainder of the day to
see more of Twillingate, and to stop at the visitor centre to see what other
attractions we might enjoy in the area. Armed with literature, and after a
great old chat with the two ladies at the centre, we headed in to Twillingate
and on to the Long Point Lighthouse at the end of the road.
A stiff, chilly wind whipped at our clothes and hair as we
stepped out of the car. We were at quite a height of land, with rocky cliffs
that dropped steeply to the water below and offered a view far out to sea. The
red and white lighthouse was built in 1876 and has operated ever since then,
although with fewer personnel today now that automation has taken over.
Our ticket entitled us to a guided tour of the lighthouse
tower. Suzie, our guide, led us up the spiraling staircase until we found
ourselves inside the glass windowed light chamber itself at the very top. There
at the centre was the revolving light, and out the windows we could see for
miles. Suzie pointed out the narrow catwalk outside where the keeper would have
to crawl out and paint the exterior from time to time, with a strong grip on
the handrail all around. It was a fascinating visit to a place I never thought
I’d see.
We also enjoyed the exhibit inside the former keeper’s
residence, describing the art of wooden boat building before the arrival of
fibreglas. There were also panels about how to make a birch bark canoe, and
explanations of the different types of boats – dories, shallops, schooners and
more.
After a rest at the camp-ground, it was time to head back for
the Twillingate/NWI dinner theatre show. We’d managed to reserve tickets at the
visitor centre earlier in the day, and selected lobster and mussels from the
menu choices. The meal was delicious, and we had two couples from Newfoundland
at our table, so the conversation was very interesting.
The dinner show left us clapping, tapping our feet, singing
along and laughing as the troupe of musicians and performers entertained us
with Newfoundland songs and silly skits. Professional performers they were not,
but they more than made up for it with the humour, enthusiasm and charm that
leaves anyone who “comes from away” completely smitten.
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