A city in the middle

Saturday, Feb. 23, 2013

Perry, FL –Florida’s capital city is just an hour from here, so with prospects of more cloud and rain today, we decided to drive to Tallahassee and have a look. Our route into the city took us up the long Apalachee Parkway, a four-lane avenue rising gently up a hill where, at the top, the old legislative building holds a commanding position, with the new building towering behind it.

The GPS led us to the visitor centre nearby, where we were hoping to get some advice on what to see and perhaps join a tour. No such luck; the offices aren’t open on weekends! So we parked the car and walked over to the old capital building where tourists can explore displays of Florida’s political history on a self-guided tour.

As we wandered from room to room, we learned about the early years when crews built a new railroad and others drained the swamps to claim some land for development. We learned that Tallahassee was a good half-way point between St. Augustine in the east and Pensacola in the west, so it was made the capital city. We saw artifacts from the Civil War and the war with the Seminole Indians, photos from the days of the Ku Klux Klan and segregation, and even a voting machine from the year 2000 when Florida’s votes held the fate of Bush or Gore in the balance till a proper count could be made.

We peeked into the old governor’s office with its roll-top desk, and the large rooms at either end for the state’s senate and house of representatives. The furnishings reminded me of old courtroom dramas like To Kill a Mockingbird where sweaty people fan themselves in the summer heat as they await a verdict.

Kelly, at the reception desk, recommended a restaurant for lunch called Harry’s, specializing in New Orleans cuisine. Val enjoyed jambalaya while I decided to try Kelly’s favourite, shrimp-n-grits. It was kind of spicy for me, but very flavourful! Our server told us the plates were a smaller version of what’s served at dinner, but neither of us could finish our “small” lunch serving!

After lunch, we went to see the Museum of Florida History. Admission was free (as was the parking, since it was Saturday), and the displays were very well done, bringing visitors past a pre-historic armadillo that turns its head as you go by, and on through the early years before the arrival of Europeans. There was an Indian grass hut, silver and gold dubloons from Spanish explorers, Civil War army tents, a citrus processing plant, a steamwheeler, pictures of Rosy-the-riveter factory women from the Second World War – a display with appeal for all ages.

At the end of the historic section there was a collection of paintings of Florida by a wide range of artists, depicting swamps, colonial times, birds, flowers and scenes of everyday life in all manner of painting styles. We saw several we would have liked to take home with us. Instead, we will enjoy a colourful Florida coffee mug we spotted at the legislature gift shop.

Tallahassee has a number of scenic routes where old trees form canopies overhead. If we had had more time, we might have checked them out, but we were glad to have seen what we did. Not only that, but the rain held off till we were on the road for home.

On the beach, on the road

Thursday and Friday, Feb. 21-22, 2013

Perry, FL – That’s right, Perry! We’re not in Dunedin any more; we left this morning after a wonderful month of relaxing, family time and touring. It seems longer than a month, yet over in no time. I guess that’s what happens when you’re having fun.

For our last day in Dunedin, we took John and Fawn to visit Caladesi Island, just off the coast and quite near the RV park. We drove over the causeway to Honeymoon Island State Park, where we had visited last year.

The neighbouring Caladesi Island was our destination this time, accessible only by ferry. The ride was breezy and short, and soon we were gliding through a channel lined with mangrove trees to a small dock. Armed with our picnic lunches, we followed the boardwalk (noting the warning signs about diamondback rattlesnakes common to the area) out to the beach and rented an umbrella and some beach chairs for the day.

Our assignment was to fill our grocery bags with nice shells for Fawn’s garden. She has a small hibiscus plant set in a ringed bed that she is gradually filling with bleached shells, and before our outing the bed was about one-third covered. On the beach, there were millions of tiny shells and fragments of shells deposited by the waves, and somewhat fewer more sizable shells that we were aiming for. It was lovely strolling along the sand in the breeze, listening to the lapping waves and screeching gulls, and pouncing on nice-looking shells when they came into view.

It was fun sitting under the umbrella to have our picnic, too, watching toddlers building sand castles with their mums and dads and seagulls gathering nearby to snatch up any crumbs we might toss their way. We didn’t offer them any, but one aggressive creature flew right over a little boy at the next umbrella when he waved his sandwich over his head. John recalled a previous beach picnic when a gull succeeded in grabbing his food right out of his hand! Needless to say, he wasn’t taking any chances this time.

Our outing and the supper we shared at John and Fawn’s trailer was a pleasant way to spend our last day in Dunedin, and this morning we battened down the hatches and pulled out at around 9:30, heading north. Although our route paralleled the gulf coast the whole way, we didn’t see the water at all. Aside from a few small towns, we were mostly traveling through bush on either side of the highway once we cleared the commercial areas north of Dunedin.

It took no time to get settled at our site in the KOA here in Perry, and that was a good thing, because almost as soon as we finished, dark thunderclouds gathered overhead, lightning flashed, and the rain began in earnest. But we are snug as bugs in rugs.

Culinary and other talents

Tuesday and Wednesday, Feb. 19-20, 2013

Dunedin, FL – It has been an intense couple of days, but the pressure is now off! Nothing dire, so fear not; tonight was the Carefree’s Got Talent Show (Carefree runs this RV park) and I was part of one of the acts! The show is an annual event here, encouraging residents of Carefree parks across the US to share their talents for some handsome prizes ($250 cash for the winner at each park and then, at the national finals, a first prize of $5,000).

Nancy, one of the longtime residents of the park, found out that I like to sing some weeks ago, and suggested we put a little something together for the show. She wrote a poem about peace that was inspired by the movie “Lincoln”, and worked up a number that included it plus a couple of patriotic songs. We chatted about it now and then, but didn’t really get serious about it till a few days ago.

When we both agreed to make a go of it, we kicked into high gear, borrowing a keyboard so I could learn the music, and meeting early in the morning to figure out how our entry would unfold. I guess we worked well under pressure, because we were first runners up at the show, which consisted of six separate numbers!

The show was preceded by a community pork roast dinner, which Nancy and I tried to enjoy as it slid past the butterflies in our stomachs. I’ve had “God Bless America” and “Let there be Peace on Earth” ringing in my brain constantly for the last 48 hours (didn’t want to flub the words!), so it was quite a relief to find we were second on the program and could enjoy the rest of the show once we were done. I don’t remember much of our actual performance, but judging from our fan club (spouses, relatives and friends) I guess we did OK!

We enjoyed talents of another type last night, when John and Fawn took us (and Algarve the pooch!) again to the guys’ cousin Linda’s place for another of her feasts! This time she made gnocchi, meat sauce and meatballs, preceded by a delicious tray of Italian cheeses and grapes and followed by homemade apple pie. Her wonderful cooking, acquired at her mother’s side, was such a treat. So was the conversation, again full of old family stories.

We arrived early enough to include a field trip to Mazzaro, the Italian food store where Linda got all the fixings for the meal. It’s a hugely popular spot, with sections of fresh vegetables, cheeses of all kinds, a huge selection of wines, olive oils, teas, pastas, gelatos, olives, spices and sweets. The eclectic décor included plaster religious statues, pictures of Italy, baskets and kitchen tools and even a row of Vespa motorbikes displayed above the cash. There’s also a café where you can taste some of the delicacies, and they hold wine tastings a couple of times a week. It was a feast for the senses – and then we got to taste some of the varied fare at Linda’s. A good time was had by all!

Food, fairs and fun

Sunday and Monday, Feb 17-18, 2013

Dunedin, FL – This morning at the weekly coffee meeting in the clubhouse, the band (made up of amateur musicians from the RV park) marked Presidents’ Day with patriotic anthems and military music. And they started, very tactfully, with O Canada for all the snowbirds of the group before playing the Star Spangled Banner and a medley of other rousing tunes!

There were still jackets, hoodies and even gloves in view at that early hour of the day, but the sun was shining and it warmed up nicely later on, though not enough for one to crave a dip in the pool. For me, however, this is perfect; I wilt when it gets into the 80s!

Fresh breezes were also blowing through the craft fair we visited in downtown Dunedin yesterday afternoon, resulting in a delightful tinkle of glass and metal in the booth where they were selling wind chimes. Jewelry, scarves, quirky lawn sculptures, handmade soaps, crushable hats, wall plaques with saucy slogans (“The only problem with the younger generation is that we’re not in it any more”) and other crafts were on display in tents all the way down Main Street, which was closed to traffic for the day. We glimpsed a Michael Jackson wannabe, in black garb and wearing a single sequined glove, going through his dance moves for an appreciative crowd as we drove past in search of a parking space. 

The scent of kettle corn – popcorn prepared in a huge steel kettle over a flame, and stirred to the point of explosion – wafted under our noses, and the coaxing rhythm of bongo drums quickened our steps as we strolled through the fair. We managed to resist funnel cakes and great slabs of homemade fudge, and even walked easily past the ice cream parlour because it was too chilly to think about frozen treats!

We rounded out our Sunday outing with a drive through some of the more upscale neighbourhoods, where we admired beautiful landscaping with palm fronds, bright pink tropical plants and lush banana palms. Some of the homes would sell for more than a million dollars, and many had water frontage where sleek boats were moored for warmer days.

What else has been going on?Well, on Friday night we heard sirens screamingon the main drag and moments later glimpsed a fire truck heading in to the park with all its lights flashing.At this morning’s meeting we learned that one of the park residents had been cleaning leaves off the roof of his RV (after 10 pm!?) and the ladder gave way. He crushed both his ankles and will be wheelchair bound for the next two months.That will make it pretty hard for him to get in and out of his RV. Just goes to show you, no one knows what’s around the next corner!So enjoy every single day!

Florida has bite

Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Feb. 14-16, 2013

Dunedin, FL – The RV is rocking gently tonight as gusts of wind whip its sides every now and then. I can imagine that the seas on the gulf not far from us here must be churning with whitecaps.  Our weather band radio crackled into action a few minutes ago, not to caution residents and seafarers about the wind, but to provide a frost warning!  Yes, the mercury is supposed to bottom out in the 20s Farenheit overnight, and gardeners are encouraged to cover tender plants.

We had sunshine and blue skies with a few clouds today, but with the steady breeze, lots of folks were decked out in fleeces and hoodies.  Other creatures were decked out at Dunedin RV Resort, because today was the pet parade!  We saw some of the contestants on their way to the event, little dogs dressed in silly clothes trotting past our site.  Algarve, John and Fawn’s Portuguese waterdog, would have been a handsome addition to the competition with his white bib and curly black fur, (we thought) but he and the yappy small fry don’t get along all that well, we’re told, so it might have been a bit tense.

Valentine’s Day, on Thursday, brought a drizzling rain that came down steadily all day.  We treated John and Fawn to lunch, since it was their 31^st anniversary, and then after a restful afternoon, prepared for the Valentine dance at the clubhouse.  It was a lovely event, with live music by a couple who catered perfectly to an audience of a certain age, with songs from the 50s and 60s!  The moment that gave me the biggest laugh was when a couple of people well into their sixties laid down on the dance floor for the song “Rollin’ on the River”, and rolled back and forth with every refrain of “rollin’, rollin’, rollin’ on the river”!  

Another highlight was when Val found the heart sticker on the bottom of his chair, which meant he had won the centrepiece at our table – one of the begonia plants I had decorated the day before!  We passed it over to John and Fawn to plant on their site.

Friday was a get-things-done day, with a trip to the grocery store and the purchase of a new mouse for our laptop.  The old one gave up the ghost, which happens with these bits of technology eventually.  The new one is even better, so we’re not complaining.

Today we made the reservations for the RV parks we’ll be staying at next weekend when we finally leave Dunedin.  It’s hard to believe our month here is almost over.  More adventures are in store, however, both this coming week and after that!

Homes and hearts

Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday, February 11-13, 2013

Dunedin, FL – The high humidity that enwrapped us through the day today culminated in a drenching downpour and thunderstorm at suppertime that has left everything washed clean and refreshed. People brag about sunny Florida all the time, but there were comments today from park residents that a good rain would be most welcome!

Being in the air-conditioned clubhouse for a couple of hours this afternoon was no burden, as Fawn and I joined a team of crafty ladies to prepare the decorations for the Valentine’s Day dance tomorrow night. It was almost like kindergarten again, as we traced and cut out hearts in different sizes, swirled glue on them and dusted them with glitter. There were also coat hangers to shape into hearts and entwine with tinsel heart garlands, and small potted begonias to wrap with tissue and ribbon for table centrepieces. While some of the women stuck large hearts onto the walls, a group of men came by for guitar practice and serenaded us with Johnny Cash songs!

Meanwhile, John and Val had gone off to admire BMW cars at a nearby dealership. Val said when a salesperson asked if she could help, he replied, “Not unless you have a spare $30,000 to give me!” Looking at the latest models kept them entertained – one can always dream, right? – and then they beat the crowds at the florist to bring Fawn and me some early Valentine roses! So romantic!

Monday's activities included the weekly morning meeting and evening Bingo game.  No big wins for me this time, but it is fun to look around at all the smiling faces as park residents enjoy getting together for a good time.

We had a pleasant outing yesterday as the four of us piled into the Honda FIT and drove to Bushnell, a small town near Ocala where our Ottawa friends Carl and Roselyn have a site at an RV park. They purchased a double-wide trailer there last year, and have fixed it up beautifully, with a large patio to one side where we sat under a shady gazebo and caught up on one another’s news. We were joined by Dave and Jackie, mutual friends also from Ottawa who are staying at the same park this winter. The four of them are enjoying park activities as well as golf games nearby on a regular basis.

Roselyn prepared a couple of lovely quiches, ham and chicken, along with a fresh salad, rolls and homemade fruitcake and cookies for dessert. Yum. We whiled away a few hours, solving the problems of the world and reminiscing on good times, till it was time to head back to Dunedin – about a 90-minute drive.

By the time we got back it was supper hour, so we headed for Perkins for hot buttermilk pancakes, syrup and bacon to celebrate Shrove Tuesday in style! Our server tried to persuade us that dessert could easily go with such a meal, but we had had more than enough of a sugar rush on the first course, so we declined. That didn’t stop us from pausing at the front counter to devour the key lime, chocolate silk and lemon meringue pies in the glass case with our eyes. Quite appropriate behaviour for Fat Tuesday.

Masterpieces, mazes and movies

Saturday and Sunday, February 9-10, 2013

Dunedin, FL – A lobster telephone? Landscapes that turn into faces? Our eyes and perceptions were challenged and entertained yesterday when we went to the Salvador Dali Museum in St. Petersburg and viewed the eccentric and skilled artwork of this renowned Spanish artist. Anyone who has seen photographs of Dali, with his spiky waxed moustache and large, bulging eyes, could tell that, in addition to his great talent, he possessed a sprightly streak of playfulness.

John and Val’s cousin Linda came along with the four of us to visit the museum, and we were glad to have a docent to guide us through the galleries of paintings. With a small flashlight, she pointed out interesting elements of some of the more fanciful works, and recurring images, such as melting clock faces, a rose, a crutch, and the face or figure of Dali’s wife, Gala.

The collection came from A. Reynolds Morse, an Ohio businessman and his wife, Eleanor, who developed an interest in Dali’s work in the early 1940s, and eventually built a museum for it in Cleveland. When it grew too large for that venue, they decided to move it to St. Petersburg, and it found its current home in 2011 – an unusual piece of architecture with bulging glass windows overlooking the bay filled with yachts and sailboats, yet built with thick, concrete walls to withstand any hurricanes that might blow in.

After our fascinating and educational tour, we explored the museum grounds, which included a Wish Tree where people could tie the paper bracelets received on paying admission to the museum, along with a wish, and a circular maze that led visitors to a stately cypress tree at its centre – and out again! There was even a park bench with a melted clock draped over it, and one end of the bench that oozed over a crutch! It was a very interesting afternoon, which came to a pleasant conclusion at Linda’s place with another delicious supper before we headed home.

Our entertainment this afternoon was another visit to the cinema, this time to see Zero Dark Thirty, the story of the hunt for Osama bin Laden, and his demise. It was very well done, with some pretty suspenseful moments, and we could certainly see why it has been nominated for five Academy Awards, including best picture, best actress and best original screenplay.